7mm The next project. (B1)

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Not only that, but it's not actually less expensive from Cookson Gold anyway. A simple confusion of feet and metres.......:oops:

Anyway, it's an alternative supplier at least.

B
 

Genghis

Western Thunderer
Yummy!

I know what you mean about calories and rolling nickel silver boilers. The first batch of Coal Tanks that the etchers provided for me were done by mistake in 18 thou nickel silver. Small boilers that almost broke my rollers!
 

Eastsidepilot

Western Thunderer
I'm in two minds about what to do with the frame finish, raw Plasticard is ok but a coat of paint might not go a miss, choices are grey, black or primer red, will ponder on that aspect for a while.

MD

How about black plasticard in the first place......doh!:D ...I'll get me coat.....:))

Col.
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Where is the boiler identity information on the backhead? I ask because I do not know how or where the LNER / BR (E) marked the boilers.
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
I can't see one on the photo shoot we did so not really sure where they placed it.

Hopefully someone shall help. Does the engine carry a brass(?) plate on the backhead to state that the boiler has BR Std washout plugs?
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Time for a small update I think, this is off at the etchers awaiting processing and hopefully back next week for a test build.
View attachment 79621

Next step is to number it all up which helps keeping track of what bits are what and which bits to tweak if required during the test build. After that it'll be the motion etch.

MD

Good grief Mick, not much air or scrap etch on that lot. Very tidy.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Good grief Mick, not much air or scrap etch on that lot. Very tidy.
Absolutely not.

Playing Tetris with the parts can be long and gruelling, but the end result is a neat and strong etch.

I recall the artwork took five or six days to do (off work on holiday helped) then two nearly three playing Tetris and then another two filing and adding tabs. I try to keep all the relevant parts roughly in the same area but sometimes that's not possible.

At the bottom are the main frames and anything attached to them like sand boxes and spring hangers, in the middle is all the transverse stays, motion bracket and cylinders etc; above that the mish mash of bits that didn't easily fit in the areas below but mostly brakes, motion and cylinder peripherals.

Finally at the top is the bogie all in one section, it's planned like this as the bogie is near identical on the L1 so I don't need to do any....or very very little.....of that artwork again. I can simply carve that whole top section off and transfer over to the L1 etches, that's a couple of days work saved.
 

Locomodels

Western Thunderer
Wow, you certainly squeeze'em in don't you. Fantastic use of the space, but it does make cutting the parts out more difficult. Care needed I guess.

Brilliant job!!

Paul.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Paul,

Thank you, cutting the parts out could be, but I use small tabs, smaller than average so they're easy to cut with a sharp strong knife, a Stanley Knife for example, not a modellers knife.

Space is money, if you open it out then the etch becomes bigger; etchers charge on the overall size. People forget that you're also paying for the empty space not just the material remaining.

I'm not happy paying for something I'm not getting, not sure about everyone else mind :cool:

MD
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Heather, I have more than enough scrap NS etch your welcome to have :thumbs: available at a local show near you if you wish ;)
 
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