Re: Easybuild 105
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Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Easybuild 105
Hehe, I'm not in a position to argue with the 'easier' argument! ;D
Steph
Hehe, I'm not in a position to argue with the 'easier' argument! ;D
Steph
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Easybuild 105
Yeah, been there; did that with Zimo. Aaages ago. If you've got 'interesting' pick-up I think it's very much worth it. It all started with Lenz and their 'Power1' module. It rescued a loco I was having real problems with and made it a magnificent and reliable running loco. Since then I've fitted them to Zimo decoders to solve the same issues.
The power packs aren't tricky to make from scratch components, the ones for Zimo are very effective, and the requirements for ESU differ only in detail. Refer to p21-22 of the LS4 manual for the specifics. You'll note that ESU are also producing an off-the-shelf version they call 'PowerPack'.
They're an interesting option, a sort of electrical answer to the perpetual problem of pick-up. I use split axles on nearly everything these days, but these powerpacks have some great advantages for 0-4-0s, shunters of all types and as a general backup.
Just a quick pointer though - CV29 will need changing to turn off the ability to run on analogue control, otherwise any powerpack is disabled. Altering this CV will help anyway, so unless you're going to be regularly running on analogue it's worth changing.
Steph
Yeah, been there; did that with Zimo. Aaages ago. If you've got 'interesting' pick-up I think it's very much worth it. It all started with Lenz and their 'Power1' module. It rescued a loco I was having real problems with and made it a magnificent and reliable running loco. Since then I've fitted them to Zimo decoders to solve the same issues.
The power packs aren't tricky to make from scratch components, the ones for Zimo are very effective, and the requirements for ESU differ only in detail. Refer to p21-22 of the LS4 manual for the specifics. You'll note that ESU are also producing an off-the-shelf version they call 'PowerPack'.
They're an interesting option, a sort of electrical answer to the perpetual problem of pick-up. I use split axles on nearly everything these days, but these powerpacks have some great advantages for 0-4-0s, shunters of all types and as a general backup.
Just a quick pointer though - CV29 will need changing to turn off the ability to run on analogue control, otherwise any powerpack is disabled. Altering this CV will help anyway, so unless you're going to be regularly running on analogue it's worth changing.
Steph
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Easybuild 105
I know what you mean, but haven't managed to find out whether the three wires are available as pins on the 21-pin version of the decoder, in which case you're wiring onto a circuit board rather than the chip.
To be honest it's not that tricky - the decoder will likely be clean, you just need a small soldering iron bit. What, you mean you haven't got one specifically for electronic jobs
. Quickly tin the wire end and trim them so that there's only a mm or two of shiny stuff exposed at the end of the insulation. They should still have a little blob of flux-rich solder on the end of the wire now. Place wire on decoder, apply iron and wait for the solder to 'flash'. Remove iron. Done.
Steph
I know what you mean, but haven't managed to find out whether the three wires are available as pins on the 21-pin version of the decoder, in which case you're wiring onto a circuit board rather than the chip.
To be honest it's not that tricky - the decoder will likely be clean, you just need a small soldering iron bit. What, you mean you haven't got one specifically for electronic jobs
. Quickly tin the wire end and trim them so that there's only a mm or two of shiny stuff exposed at the end of the insulation. They should still have a little blob of flux-rich solder on the end of the wire now. Place wire on decoder, apply iron and wait for the solder to 'flash'. Remove iron. Done.Steph
28ten
Guv'nor
Easybuild 105
I have actually, its just never been used 8)Steph Dale said:I know what you mean, but haven't managed to find out whether the three wires are available as pins on the 21-pin version of the decoder, in which case you're wiring onto a circuit board rather than the chip.
To be honest it's not that tricky - the decoder will likely be clean, you just need a small soldering iron bit. What, you mean you haven't got one specifically for electronic jobs
Steph
28ten
Guv'nor
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Easybuild 105
I don't think so. The PowerPack seems to use a version of the 3-wire connection that started with the Lenz 'Gold'. Zimo use a two-wire system based around off-the-shelf components. ESU are being very clever, the v4 can do anything Zimo can do, and quite a lot of what the Lenz Gold can do too. It's one hell of a product to be honest. I've not had much time to 'play' yet - nothing on the sound profile side at all and it still impresses me.
Steph
Dikitriki said:
I don't think so. The PowerPack seems to use a version of the 3-wire connection that started with the Lenz 'Gold'. Zimo use a two-wire system based around off-the-shelf components. ESU are being very clever, the v4 can do anything Zimo can do, and quite a lot of what the Lenz Gold can do too. It's one hell of a product to be honest. I've not had much time to 'play' yet - nothing on the sound profile side at all and it still impresses me.
Steph
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Easybuild 105
I don't follow this Steph.
The link Cynric gave showed a 2 wire connection for the Loksound power module. The Zimo is also a 2 wire connection is it not. While I don't propose frying a Zimo chip to find out, I was hoping the power module was suitable for both Loksound and Zimo.
Richard
Steph Dale said:
I don't follow this Steph.
The link Cynric gave showed a 2 wire connection for the Loksound power module. The Zimo is also a 2 wire connection is it not. While I don't propose frying a Zimo chip to find out, I was hoping the power module was suitable for both Loksound and Zimo.
Richard
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Easybuild 105
Richard,
At the moment I can only go on what's in the LS4 manual. The PowerPack is definately 3-wire connection (diag at bottom of p22) or there's an option of fitting your own power pack using the two-wire connection (diag at top of p22).
This is one of those cases where ESU support a Lenz-type feature (3-wire; and please note that I have no idea whether the Lenz Power1 or Power3 is compatible with ESU PowerPack) and a Zimo-type feature (ends of the power rails exposed so caspacitors can be added). The Lenz and Zimo approaches are different - you can't connect a Power1 to a Zimo decoder, or add simple power packs to a Lenz Gold.
So I don't think you'll be able to connect either PowerPack, Power1 or Power3 to a Zimo decoder, no.
Steph
Richard,
At the moment I can only go on what's in the LS4 manual. The PowerPack is definately 3-wire connection (diag at bottom of p22) or there's an option of fitting your own power pack using the two-wire connection (diag at top of p22).
This is one of those cases where ESU support a Lenz-type feature (3-wire; and please note that I have no idea whether the Lenz Power1 or Power3 is compatible with ESU PowerPack) and a Zimo-type feature (ends of the power rails exposed so caspacitors can be added). The Lenz and Zimo approaches are different - you can't connect a Power1 to a Zimo decoder, or add simple power packs to a Lenz Gold.
So I don't think you'll be able to connect either PowerPack, Power1 or Power3 to a Zimo decoder, no.
Steph
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Easybuild 105
Nope - and there's the source of the confusion. This is some enterprising soul making up the equivalent of the off-the-shelf power supplies. They'll be affordable, sure; but are probably somewhat less effective than the ESU 54670 PowerPack. They're also very expensive considering they only contain about £1 of parts and their energy density isn't likely to be very high, which is why they're not telling you how big (capacitance) they are. From reports it appears that 2200uF at least is needed to keep wheels turning, but I suspect that anything will help and I'll be fitting them to most of my LS4 installations.
Sorry for not checking the link sooner - my smartphone ran out of bandwidth in the pub last night...
Steph
28ten said:
Nope - and there's the source of the confusion. This is some enterprising soul making up the equivalent of the off-the-shelf power supplies. They'll be affordable, sure; but are probably somewhat less effective than the ESU 54670 PowerPack. They're also very expensive considering they only contain about £1 of parts and their energy density isn't likely to be very high, which is why they're not telling you how big (capacitance) they are. From reports it appears that 2200uF at least is needed to keep wheels turning, but I suspect that anything will help and I'll be fitting them to most of my LS4 installations.
Sorry for not checking the link sooner - my smartphone ran out of bandwidth in the pub last night...
Steph
28ten
Guv'nor
Easybuild 105
A quick update, the chassis is painted, as are the seats ( I havent a clue what colour the floor should be, dark grey?) with a dash of silver to represent the chrome frame.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
And this is the body
[attachimg=3]
the roof needs a dash of matt varnish, then tomorrow should see the application of the transfers. It should look ok when it is all put together, but as I said earlier, it is very much a layout workhorse rather than a finescale model.
A quick update, the chassis is painted, as are the seats ( I havent a clue what colour the floor should be, dark grey?) with a dash of silver to represent the chrome frame.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
And this is the body
[attachimg=3]
the roof needs a dash of matt varnish, then tomorrow should see the application of the transfers. It should look ok when it is all put together, but as I said earlier, it is very much a layout workhorse rather than a finescale model.
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TimC
Active Member
Easybuild 105
Very nice build!
I've got an Easybuild Cravens on the go too but am a bit behind you on progress having just finished the underframe detail this week. I've used the 'as supplied' motor bogie but I like yours and may replace mine in due course, we'll see how it runs.
My build is over on RMweb http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index. ... ge__st__50
Good luck!
Very nice build!
I've got an Easybuild Cravens on the go too but am a bit behind you on progress having just finished the underframe detail this week. I've used the 'as supplied' motor bogie but I like yours and may replace mine in due course, we'll see how it runs.
My build is over on RMweb http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index. ... ge__st__50
Good luck!
28ten
Guv'nor
Easybuild 105
Tim, I have followed your build, Blue with yellow ends is a wise choice..... so fat I have spent 4 hours on the lining transfers
[attachimg=1]
There are still a few joins to sort and some general tweaking, but at least with these Fox transfers you can re-float them and make adjustments. Apart from a few small details i'm hoping to have it finished for Tuesday so it can pootle round Heyside at Manchester.
Im off outside for some scream therapy before I get back to it tonight
Tim, I have followed your build, Blue with yellow ends is a wise choice..... so fat I have spent 4 hours on the lining transfers
[attachimg=1]
There are still a few joins to sort and some general tweaking, but at least with these Fox transfers you can re-float them and make adjustments. Apart from a few small details i'm hoping to have it finished for Tuesday so it can pootle round Heyside at Manchester.
Im off outside for some scream therapy before I get back to it tonight
