Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Hmm, that seems to put the kybosh on F/S then.
Hmm, that seems to put the kybosh on F/S then.
Richard,
Not at all - thats why we do both a FS and a S7 version. On the FS version the Load Well is narrower than the prototype - just like the wheel back-to-back distance!!! Its based on the assumption that - if you can live with one compromise, you can live with another!
Regards,
DJP/MMP
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Thank you David.
That is very joined up thinking. I hadn't looked to see whether you did separate versions.
I have let it be known to the powers that be that MMP does gift vouchers, and with a birthday in the near future, I'm hoping a 40t well wagon will appear on my workbench (F/S of course
).
Richard
That is very joined up thinking. I hadn't looked to see whether you did separate versions.
I have let it be known to the powers that be that MMP does gift vouchers, and with a birthday in the near future, I'm hoping a 40t well wagon will appear on my workbench (F/S of course
).Richard
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
Hi Adrian, very nice work. Lots of rivets mmmm bet that was nice n easy 
.
I look forward to your next progress report.
Rob
. I look forward to your next progress report.
Rob
Hi Adrian, very nice work. Lots of rivets mmmm bet that was nice n easy
I look forward to your next progress report.
Rob
Takes just a few minutes with a GW Models riveting tool!
adrian
Flying Squad
Just as quick with one I made myself! Although the half etched dimples helped as well.
40126
Western Thunderer
Hi Adrian 
Just seen this on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200889807089?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
Steve
Just seen this on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200889807089?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
Steve
adrian
Flying Squad
With the well tank in place the instructions then turns to the vertical support brackets, they are handed so first are 2 left hand ones followed by 2 right hand ones.
As per the instructions I made up the left hand ones first to see how it would go but forgot the photo's. So the photo of bits below are actually for the right hand ones.
Plenty of rivets to be punched out first, so starting from the centre and working out, the H frames are folded at the bottom to make a step and have a small half etch line along the inner edge to solder in the side plates with multiple holes. This proved to be quite a tricky job, pressing out the half etched rivets meant that everything had a nice gentle bow in multiple directions. Everything was carefully straightened but holding the side plates in the correct position and at right angles needed a couple of attempts to get it looking right, I resorted to feeding a few lengths of nickel rod through the holes to try and keep everything square. Once that was done the wide plate was soldered in position followed by the outer angle plates. There's no positive location for the angle plates but there are half etched markings to indicate where they fit so with a little care on the positioning they make up into the units as shown below.
Note the tab at the top will be removed, it's just hold the vertical angle in position for the minute, I've folded it down slightly for the photo so that the support sits neatly on the workbench for the photo.
This weeks job will be to finish off the right hand pair!!
As per the instructions I made up the left hand ones first to see how it would go but forgot the photo's. So the photo of bits below are actually for the right hand ones.
Plenty of rivets to be punched out first, so starting from the centre and working out, the H frames are folded at the bottom to make a step and have a small half etch line along the inner edge to solder in the side plates with multiple holes. This proved to be quite a tricky job, pressing out the half etched rivets meant that everything had a nice gentle bow in multiple directions. Everything was carefully straightened but holding the side plates in the correct position and at right angles needed a couple of attempts to get it looking right, I resorted to feeding a few lengths of nickel rod through the holes to try and keep everything square. Once that was done the wide plate was soldered in position followed by the outer angle plates. There's no positive location for the angle plates but there are half etched markings to indicate where they fit so with a little care on the positioning they make up into the units as shown below.
Note the tab at the top will be removed, it's just hold the vertical angle in position for the minute, I've folded it down slightly for the photo so that the support sits neatly on the workbench for the photo.
This weeks job will be to finish off the right hand pair!!
adrian
Flying Squad
Three months later
- managed to grab a few hours at the workbench.Once all four verticals were complete they were soldered to the frame. Half etched guides are on the well which indicate where they should be located. At first I thought I'd done something wrong as the vertical upright when in place on the well didn't line up correctly with the outside U channel of the frame. However I then realised there was a nice bow on the U channel and a nice straight edge pushed it back into position. So with the verticals soldered in correctly it does help make the wagon straight and square.
Onto the cross pieces between the verticals. These are the next set of etchings to work with.
The long pieces are to be folded into an angle and as mentioned in the instructions take care when fitting to get the bevel and orientation correct. From this photo I hope you can see that the half etch fold line and the half etch rivet dimples are on the same side. If you fold up this piece with the half etch line on the inside then the rivet is on the wrong side. The rivet needs to be on the inside of the angle, so either fold up with the half etch line on the outside of the angle or do what I did, punch the rivets as intended, fold up with the line on the inside of the angle and then with the rivet tool punch the rivets back through to the inside of the angle.
I seem to remember a previous conversation on forming angles - so a photo to show my method. I use a hold an fold to clamp the etch and then a strip of steel bar to push the angle over as much as I can. Then finished off with a rawhide mallet. Gentle tapping if required but then the mallet is just rubbed up and down the angle.
Giving a nice straight angle piece - note the rivets on the wrong side of the angle. Although having gone to all that trouble on the prototype photos there isn't a straight piece of angle in sight, they all seem to have been bashed or knocked in some way.
So all fitted in place, note the orientation of the angle pieces and the rivets on the inside.
So current state of play is this.
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
I had the pleasure of seeing Rob's F7 version at Easter earlier this year and I thought that the clearances were tight with his version... which is not S7.
Rob has made working clamps for his model, so one stands the glass case in the well and then wind up the clamps to secure the load... after about four minutes of gentle winding (twiddling actually, becuase the clamps are so small). Very nice piece of work and really ought to be de rigeur for a S7 model - hint.
regards, Graham
Rob has made working clamps for his model, so one stands the glass case in the well and then wind up the clamps to secure the load... after about four minutes of gentle winding (twiddling actually, becuase the clamps are so small). Very nice piece of work and really ought to be de rigeur for a S7 model - hint.
regards, Graham
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
That's one I got wrong then - my internal braces are the same way up top and bottom....
adrian
Flying Squad
and so it progresses at the ever glacial pace! Too many other jobs to do has limited my access to the workbench. It took me over a month just to unpack from the Wigan show. Anyway I've been tinkering away at this a little bit at a time and this is where I'm up to.
The next task was making up the little brackets for the shackles. Again more etchings that required quite a few folds to get right. 10 in total to make, fortunately there were a couple of spare etches as a few of them ended up looking a little drunk once folded.
Once fitted the next job was the brake gear, again multiple layers of etchings and bits of wire are required. This is just for 2 brake shoes.
Once all soldered together.
Next it's the hanger and brackets for the shoes.
Note the written instructions refer to parts 27 and 28 for the brackets but in the drawing and on the etches they are labelled 27a and 27b. Note they are handed hence making them up. The other etching is for soldering up the hangers in the right place as will be seen below.
Once the lefthand pair are complete we then have the righthand set to do.
Next up are the bars for the brakes.
Again more etchings and wire to solder up, I used a couple of pieces of paxolin to keep the spacing even.
I could then start assembling the various bits. I found that I could ping the brake shoe into the stretcher bar without soldering it.
This meant that I could solder the hanger in to the wagon but the brake shoe could be adjusted back and forwards. Which was useful as the wheels seemed a little low, I think I'm going to have to adjust the springing to effectively lower the wagon.
So left and right brakes are now fitted and still move. It probably wouldn't be too difficult to make the brakes work with the lever but I think I'll solder it all up to keep everything in the right position.
The final image included to show the clamps. As suggested these will work, they are steel screws with the head thinned down a little and soldered to a steel washer to maker the clamping plate. I haven't soldered the bars in the end as I want them removable at this stage. The whole thing needs a good clean and wash but I'm loathe to get it any where near water at the moment with the Slaters wheels still fitted. I'll finish adding the last few etchings, strip out the wheels and steels screws before giving it a damn good clean. Then it'll be adding the various whitemetal castings prior to painting.
You never know I may even manage to get it finished before the end of the year!!
The next task was making up the little brackets for the shackles. Again more etchings that required quite a few folds to get right. 10 in total to make, fortunately there were a couple of spare etches as a few of them ended up looking a little drunk once folded.
Once fitted the next job was the brake gear, again multiple layers of etchings and bits of wire are required. This is just for 2 brake shoes.
Once all soldered together.
Next it's the hanger and brackets for the shoes.
Note the written instructions refer to parts 27 and 28 for the brackets but in the drawing and on the etches they are labelled 27a and 27b. Note they are handed hence making them up. The other etching is for soldering up the hangers in the right place as will be seen below.
Once the lefthand pair are complete we then have the righthand set to do.
Next up are the bars for the brakes.
Again more etchings and wire to solder up, I used a couple of pieces of paxolin to keep the spacing even.
I could then start assembling the various bits. I found that I could ping the brake shoe into the stretcher bar without soldering it.
This meant that I could solder the hanger in to the wagon but the brake shoe could be adjusted back and forwards. Which was useful as the wheels seemed a little low, I think I'm going to have to adjust the springing to effectively lower the wagon.
So left and right brakes are now fitted and still move. It probably wouldn't be too difficult to make the brakes work with the lever but I think I'll solder it all up to keep everything in the right position.
The final image included to show the clamps. As suggested these will work, they are steel screws with the head thinned down a little and soldered to a steel washer to maker the clamping plate. I haven't soldered the bars in the end as I want them removable at this stage. The whole thing needs a good clean and wash but I'm loathe to get it any where near water at the moment with the Slaters wheels still fitted. I'll finish adding the last few etchings, strip out the wheels and steels screws before giving it a damn good clean. Then it'll be adding the various whitemetal castings prior to painting.
You never know I may even manage to get it finished before the end of the year!!
40126
Western Thunderer
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
Looks very impressive Adrian. I look forward to seeing it painted and weathered
Rob
. I look forward to seeing it painted and weatheredRob
adrian
Flying Squad
A monthly update on the build! A little progress has been made despite a brief interlude, a family holiday in Sorrento. The only railway interest being a few trips on the narrow gauge Circumvesuviana from Sorrento to Naples.
Anyway back to the kit, the brake lever is built up from plenty of etchings. Two are sweated together to give a bit of thickness to the brake lever then there 4 washers to represent the boss and nut on the main pivot. They were very thin etchings and I bent quite a few separating them from the etched sheet. A little tap on a block of wood soon straightened them out.
The overall effect once soldered together I think looks quite effective
So I've just finished adding all the rest of the etched detail. Etched builders plates, clips etc. There was also a small hand rail to be added above the lefthand W iron. These were apparently fitted on the LMS version but not the BR version so there are no markings on the etchings for a drilling guide. There are a couple of rivets close by and so I pop-marked just to the inside of these to drill the holes so that the rivets represent the clamping bolts for the handrail. I suspect for the BR version these half etched rivets should not be punched through.
So I've removed the wheels and axle boxes as there are no more etched details to add. It needs a damn good clean up and I didn't want to get the wheels anywhere near any water for fear of watching them rust in front of my eyes. The wheels have been polished and blackened with Casey's fluid. Once cleaned up there are a couple of whitemetal fittings to go on, axle boxes, buffer stocks and lashing eyelets and then it needs a lick of paint before adding all the wood details.
With a bit of luck and following wind that will be the next posting. I can see the finish line now so I'm already plotting my next project which is a useful motivator to getting this finished. There are a couple of slightly different projects which I want to get cracking on but have a self imposed moratorium on them until this kit is finished.
Anyway back to the kit, the brake lever is built up from plenty of etchings. Two are sweated together to give a bit of thickness to the brake lever then there 4 washers to represent the boss and nut on the main pivot. They were very thin etchings and I bent quite a few separating them from the etched sheet. A little tap on a block of wood soon straightened them out.
The overall effect once soldered together I think looks quite effective
So I've just finished adding all the rest of the etched detail. Etched builders plates, clips etc. There was also a small hand rail to be added above the lefthand W iron. These were apparently fitted on the LMS version but not the BR version so there are no markings on the etchings for a drilling guide. There are a couple of rivets close by and so I pop-marked just to the inside of these to drill the holes so that the rivets represent the clamping bolts for the handrail. I suspect for the BR version these half etched rivets should not be punched through.
So I've removed the wheels and axle boxes as there are no more etched details to add. It needs a damn good clean up and I didn't want to get the wheels anywhere near any water for fear of watching them rust in front of my eyes. The wheels have been polished and blackened with Casey's fluid. Once cleaned up there are a couple of whitemetal fittings to go on, axle boxes, buffer stocks and lashing eyelets and then it needs a lick of paint before adding all the wood details.
With a bit of luck and following wind that will be the next posting. I can see the finish line now so I'm already plotting my next project which is a useful motivator to getting this finished. There are a couple of slightly different projects which I want to get cracking on but have a self imposed moratorium on them until this kit is finished.
That is partly true for the BR version - the outer one is a rivet and the inner one should not be pushed through - but in the context of the LMS version these are not rivets - they are actually the marker holes etched in the rear of the solebar for drilling out the handrail fixing holes which you say we do not provide - these are clearly shown on the assembly drawings.
Regards,
adrian
Flying Squad
That's where I went wrong then, I was reading the instructions.
There was nothing in there about drilling holes and I was just merrily punching half etched holes through as rivets. It wasn't a problem and soon sorted.Anyway progress to date, I've added the buffers but decided to hold fire on fitting all the lashing hoops. I thought they would get all clogged up with paint if I sprayed the wagon. So I'll paint them separately and fit later. The wagon was cleaned, although at times it felt like that the brass was tarnishing faster than I could clean it with all the nooks and crannies.
However today was a glorious day so after a good scrub with the barkeepers friend and drying out on the radiator which helps to warm up the brass I added the first coat of grey primer. It took two or three goes as the well tank was quite awkward to paint without getting too much on the surrounding frames. Next job is to start cutting all the wood whilst I leave the paint to harden.
